How Much Does a Fridge Freezer Cost to Run?

Updated January 2025 · Based on current UK electricity rates

Your fridge freezer is the only appliance in your home that runs 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. While it uses relatively low power at any given moment (100–200W when the compressor is running), the non-stop operation means it's typically one of the top 3 most expensive appliances to run annually. The good news: modern fridge freezers are dramatically more efficient than older models, and simple habits can reduce their energy consumption significantly.

Quick Answer: Fridge Freezer Annual Running Costs

Based on the UK average electricity rate of approximately 24.5p per kWh:

Energy Rating (2021+ label)Annual Energy UseAnnual Cost
A (best available)100 – 130 kWh£25 – £32
B130 – 170 kWh£32 – £42
C170 – 220 kWh£42 – £54
D220 – 280 kWh£54 – £69
E280 – 350 kWh£69 – £86
F350 – 430 kWh£86 – £105
G (or old A+ pre-2021)400 – 550+ kWh£98 – £135+

Key takeaway: A new A-rated fridge freezer costs approximately £25–£32 per year to run. An older model (10+ years old, previously rated A+) may cost £85–£135 per year — a difference of £60–£100 annually. Over a 15-year lifespan, that's up to £1,500 in extra electricity costs.

Understanding Fridge Freezer Energy Use

Unlike most appliances, fridge freezers don't draw power continuously. They cycle on and off throughout the day:

The compressor runs more frequently when: the door is opened often, warm food is placed inside, the room temperature is high, the door seal is worn, or the coils are dusty.

Running Costs by Fridge Freezer Type

TypeTypical SizeAnnual kWhAnnual Cost
Under-counter fridge (no freezer)80–130L90 – 130 kWh£22 – £32
Standard fridge freezer (50/50)250–350L180 – 300 kWh£44 – £74
Tall fridge freezer (70/30)300–400L200 – 350 kWh£49 – £86
American-style (side-by-side)500–700L350 – 550 kWh£86 – £135
Chest freezer150–400L150 – 300 kWh£37 – £74
Mini fridge (drinks)40–80L100 – 180 kWh£25 – £44

American-style fridge freezers are the most expensive to run due to their large volume and additional features (ice dispensers, water chillers, multiple compressors). A standard 50/50 fridge freezer offers the best balance of capacity and efficiency for most households.

The Energy Label Explained

In 2021, the EU (and UK) rescaled energy labels from the old A+++ to D system to a new A to G system. This means:

The annual kWh figure on the energy label is the most useful number — it tells you exactly how much electricity the fridge uses per year under standardised test conditions. Real-world usage is typically 10–20% higher due to door openings, room temperature, and food loading.

When Should You Replace Your Fridge Freezer?

If your fridge freezer is over 10 years old, it's likely costing you significantly more to run than a modern equivalent:

Fridge AgeLikely Old RatingTypical Annual kWhAnnual CostSavings vs New (C-rated)
1–5 yearsNew C–D170 – 280 kWh£42 – £69£0 – £15
5–10 yearsOld A+ to A++250 – 380 kWh£61 – £93£15 – £45
10–15 yearsOld A to B350 – 500 kWh£86 – £123£40 – £75
15+ yearsOld C or lower450 – 650+ kWh£110 – £160+£65 – £110+

If your fridge is 12+ years old, a new C-rated model (approximately £400–£600) would pay for itself in electricity savings within 5–8 years — and you'd benefit from better temperature control, quieter operation, and more usable space.

Tips to Reduce Fridge Freezer Running Costs

  1. Set the correct temperature — fridge should be 3–5°C, freezer should be -18°C. Every degree colder than necessary increases energy use by approximately 5%.
  2. Keep it full (but not overpacked) — a full fridge retains cold better than an empty one. Use water bottles to fill empty space. But don't block air circulation vents.
  3. Let hot food cool first — placing warm food directly in the fridge forces the compressor to work overtime. Let food cool to room temperature first (within food safety limits — don't leave it out more than 2 hours).
  4. Check door seals — a worn or dirty seal lets cold air escape. Test by closing the door on a piece of paper — if it slides out easily, the seal needs replacing.
  5. Clean the condenser coils — dusty coils (usually at the back or underneath) reduce efficiency by 10–25%. Vacuum them every 6–12 months.
  6. Keep it away from heat sources — don't place your fridge next to the oven, boiler, or in direct sunlight. Ambient heat makes it work harder.
  7. Leave space around the unit — ensure 5–10cm clearance at the back and sides for air circulation around the condenser.
  8. Don't leave the door open — each door opening lets warm air in. Get what you need and close it quickly.
  9. Defrost regularly — if your freezer isn't frost-free, ice buildup acts as insulation and forces the compressor to work harder. Defrost when ice is more than 5mm thick.
  10. Consider your second fridge — many households run a spare fridge or freezer in the garage. If it's old and half-empty, it may cost £80–£100+ per year for little benefit.

The Second Fridge Problem

Around 20% of UK households have a second fridge or standalone freezer — often an old model in the garage. These are frequently the most expensive fridge appliance to run because they're typically:

An old garage freezer might cost £100–£150 per year to run. Consider whether you actually need it, or whether consolidating into one efficient fridge freezer would work.

Calculate Your Fridge Freezer Costs

Use our free energy cost calculator to estimate your fridge freezer's running cost. For the most accurate figure, check the energy label on your appliance for the annual kWh consumption. If the label is missing, look up your model online or estimate using the tables above based on its age and type.

Written by: The Home Energy Cost Calculator editorial team

Last updated: January 2025

Sources: Ofgem energy price cap data, Energy Saving Trust, EU energy label regulations 2019/2016, manufacturer specifications